The garage was looking much more like a house now that the outside is done … but inside it still needed to be converted.

The walls of the garage were single skinned and would not hold heat very well. Insulating the walls would be the answer to a warm space in the winter and a cool space in the summer,

Before we could begin dry lining the walls with a timber frame and insulating, the interior needed to be coated with black moisture barrier paint. At first, we thought 1m high would be enough, but we needed to coat the entire brick surface instead. The garage had a damp proof course but as it would be a single skin structure, the building officer asked for all the entire walls to be treated to eliminate the risk of damp.

Moisture resistant paint on internal walls
Moisture resistant paint on internal walls

The wall timbers were fixed at the base to a freestanding timber frame that went around the whole of the floor. They were fixed to the roof trusses at the top. Cables and insulation would then be inserted into the walls before plaster boarding the surface.

Timber frame being made
Timber frame being made

At this time the mezzanine was also constructed. The frame work was bolted to the walls even though it was also supported by the timber framework. It was exciting to see this level being formed. This would provide extra floor space with an excellent view over the main living area. This also meant that the stud wall between the kitchen and shower room could be made.

Mezzanine floor
Mezzanine floor

Thermal insulation boards come in multiple thicknesses and sheet sizes. We required 90mm thickness for the walls and floor. The sheets were cut to size and the cut sections then pushed into the gaps until flush with the timbers. A small gap between the brickwork and the back side of the insulation was left.

Special attention needed to be paid to the corners where the timber frame could prevent insulation being inserted. If theses spaces are left without insulation, cold spots can form and condensation and ultimately damp become a problem.

It was a relief to hide the dark walls behind the insulation and begin to see the potential of the space with some light in it.

The same treatment had to be given to the floor and the ceiling.

A timber frame was made to cover the floor and insulation added to it. This raised the level of the floor and also the door threshold … thankfully we had remembered this when we had measured and ordered the door.

Floor with timber frame, insulation, chipboard floor and raised threshold
Floor with timber frame, insulation, chipboard floor and raised threshold

The ceiling needed insulation inserted into the gaps and then further sheets fixed over the top of them.

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Plaster boarding and plastering the space would transform it.

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The Tiny House was finally beginning to look more habitable!

 

Thank you for reading this conversion blog. A new book will be coming out soon which covers the project in greater detail with much more advice. Please keep an eye out for it.

If you would like to view previous Tiny House blog posts, please click the link below …

https://katyhollwayauthor.wordpress.com/category/tiny-house-2/

My Tiny House Building book is now available with more detail than this blog. It is available here.

Please also check out my fiction writing!

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