Fitting the tiles gives a really finished feel and hopefully, a watertight building!

When the all the rafters had been fitted, a layer of breathable felt was laid over the roof structure and fixed in place. The felt is a soft fabric that can be attached in long lengths across the rafters with staples or tacks. We started at the bottom and worked our way up. This way, the overlap allowed for water to run off the roof rather than through the roof.

Firfix was fitted at the edge of the building lining up with the edge of the tiles.

Battens were fixed by screwing through the felt and into the rafters. We needed to start at the lowest point and work your way up. The first row of tiles is made up of shorter tiles (eaves tiles) so the battens are closer at this point and need to be raised a little as they do not sit on an existing row. This is achieved using a batten. Tiles are hung from the battens and are fitted staggered. The are nailed into place.

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Gable end. The block work has been filled in using the roof line as a guide.
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The edges are neatened by filling in the gaps with render against the tile ends and firfix.

 

The ridge of the roof is finished with a row of the smaller eaves tiles and then a ridge tile. The curved tile doesn’t have any holes for fixing with nails so it must be secured into place using render.

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Fixing the ridge tiles into place (my wonderful father is doing this job!)

Tile hanging the gable ends was part of the design since it tied in with the design of our property. The method is similar to the fitting the tiles to the roof. We used reclaimed tiles that matched out property and were picked up using freecycle (online community where instead of going to landfill, your unwanted items are advertised and free for others). The first batten row is doubled to allow for the tiles to sit at the correct angle away from the wall.

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More complicated gable end. The window recess required lead flashing before the window could be fitted.

 

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Fitting the mezzanine floor window.

 

 

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My daughter loves to help. Here she is fixing the battens to the street side gable (her father was there to assist!)

 

The soffits and fascia were added to the tiny house. First the rafter ends were cut to length. The ends were then boxed in with thin ply running the length of the building. The uPVC soffits and fascia were cut and fixed into place with the exposed ends finished neatly. The guttering was installed allowing for a slight fall so that the water coming off the roof would drain away into the downpipe. The first bracket was fixed and string tied to the bracket, this was then stretched to the downpipe and a spirit level determined if there was enough angle before other brackets were fitted. All the guttering runs downhill into the downpipe.

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We used the void inside the soffits to introduce and hide the electricity and water into the tiny house. This was the best option and allow us to not disrupt the internal space too much.

The tiny house is now water tight.

 

Thank you for reading my tiny house blog. A book is currently being compiled with much greater detail of how to build a tiny house. Please watch this space!

As ever, other tiny house posts can be found here …

https://katyhollwayauthor.wordpress.com/category/tiny-house-2/

 

I am a fiction writer too, so you can find some samples of my work here ….

https://katyhollwayauthor.wordpress.com/category/chapter-samples/

… and here

https://katyhollwayauthor.wordpress.com/category/short-story-2/

 

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